London is sparkling with lights and decorations, ready for the forthcoming Christmas, but still offers a great choice of thought-provoking exhibitions. If you have some spare time in your Christmas shopping keep in mind our unusual title and visit the exhibitions on ‘’Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion manifesto’’ (V&A ends 25th February 2024), “David Hockney. Drawing from Life (National Portrait Gallery ends 21St January 2024) and ‘’Burma to Myanmar’’ (British Museum ends 11th February 2024).
Gabrielle ‘’Coco’’ Chanel exhibition
The exhibition has been a great success, and it will take a while to book unless you are a member of the V&A. We were quite curious to visit it, and the displays do not disappoint. Coco was, and probably is, the brightest female star in a fashion world dominated by men. Coming from humble beginnings, the daughter of a laundry woman and a street peddler, she made her fortune with a genial vision coupled with undoubted business acumen. At a young age, she became the mistress of Arthur Edward ‘’Boy’’ Capel, a rich British aristocrat. The affair lasted nine years, and ‘’Boy’’ influenced her budding design style and financed her first tentative steps into the fashion world. It is said that the iconic Chanel N.5 bottle was inspired by his toiletry containers or, perhaps, his favourite whisky bottle.
With Capel’s help, she opened boutiques in Deauville and then in Biarritz. In 1919 she finally decided to open in Paris, at the now famous address of Rue Cambon. Her ability to cultivate connections projected her, and her products, not only on the stage of French high society but also the British one. She had a long affair with the Duke of Westminster and, probably, a quick fling with Edward, Prince of Wales. In the thirties, her star started to wane, and she found herself competing with new designers, most notably Elsa Schiaparelli. The war followed, and it was a dark period. It transpires that she had sympathies for the Nazis and spied on them.
After the war, however, her name was discovered also as a supporter of the French resistance. Because of her connections, she was not further investigated or prosecuted. She retired to Switzerland soon after. Her Swan’s song was in 1954 when, at 71, she decided it was time for her to return and present a new collection that was a runaway success, albeit first in America with famous people like Jackie Kennedy and Elisabeth Taylor adopting her designs and then, eventually, in France where her controversial war past had not been digested yet. She died at 87 in 1971. A full life!
Coco Chanel’s genius was in designing simple, classic outfits that defy time. Most of the exhibition’s dresses could be worn today. She was also the first designer to develop accessories lines, from jewellery to iconic perfumes. In the exhibition, one can see a photo of American soldiers in the just liberated Paris, queuing outside Chanel’s shop to buy her N.5 perfume.
David Hockney
David Hockney does not need any introduction. He has experimented a lot with new media in his career but has never forgotten his roots, both artistic and personal. He is certainly one of the most important artists of the last 50/60 years. The exhibition at the NPG is an intimate one, looking at his portraits, over the years, of only five people: himself, his partner, his printer, his friend Celia and his mother. Despite the minimalist approach (mostly black and white drawings), one can see the subjects slowly changing through time and the eyes of the artist. In the Covid years, Hockney spent most of his time on an isolated farm in Normandy and produced a lot of work on iPad. He also decided to paint portraits, 33 of them, of friends and neighbors. Incredibly enough he used brush and paint directly on the canvas without drawing even an outline of the subject! Once again, an incredible artist and an exciting person.
Burma to Myanmar – another exhibition not to miss
The British Museum exhibition looks at the history of a country that is today very much isolated on the world stage. Myanmar military dictatorship and their ongoing fight with the Nobel Prize Aung San Suu Kyi pop up regularly in the news. But Myanmar, or Burma as it was known in the West for many centuries, has a long history. Its position makes it a crossroads of Asia. Starting as early as 450 A.D., the exhibition shows how the various ethnicities in Myanmar interacted with each other creating new ideas and art forms. From the 14th century, several kingdoms jostled for power and expanded important links with Thailand, China, Sri Lanka, and traders from the Middle East and Europe establishing Myanmar as a rich and respected country in the area. Great Britain annexed it to their Empire in the 19th century, and the British rule brought major changes to art, culture and society, sowing the seeds of the turmoil that the country is facing today. The exhibition is rich in an incredible array of artworks made of jade, pearls, rubies, teak, ivory, gold, beautiful textiles, and paintings. A real insight into a culture of which we know very little. The exhibition ends with a look at how modern-day artists are using their country’s heritage to resist and fight censorship and political dictatorship.
Come and join us at Il Circolo’s ITALIAN CHRISTMAS BAZAAR on the 10th of December at the Chelsea Old Town Hall, King’s Road, SW3 5EZ!
